Retinoids, the mighty monarchy

Look, vitamin A is the royal family, masters of rocks, queens of pop.

It was discovered as a benefit of acne treatment in 70s in USA by Dr. Kligman and Dr. Fulton. They treated their patients suffering from various types of acne and somehow they observed fine lines and pores were not that visible, skin was smoother, glowy, youthful skin was resurfacing, well seems like they basically turned their patient into the Cullens family. There are more than 40 years of research and proven science research how well it works.

The basic division is prescriptive and over the counter

The bottom line of prescriptive retinoids is that only doctor can prescribe those, it´s medicine - tretinoin, adapalene + tazarotene (the third gemeration) and isotretinoin as oral medicine. Usually prescribed for treating acne. We know retinoic acid - Tretinoin, the boss bitch. Tretinoin doesn´t need any conversion and it straightly goes to RAR receptors (retinoic acid receptors), concentrations are 0,025%, 0,05% and 0,1%.

To explain how retinoids work in a nutshell: look, imagine Tretinoin is like Cher or Miranda Priestly of active ingredients. It´s the purest form, the strongest, our skin receives tretinoin with no need of conversion. It´s an active retinoic acid and it will work right away. Tretinoin works on skin-cellular level.

Retinal, or retinaldehyde, is the strongest so far from non-prescriptive retinoids with proven research. It needs one conversion.

Retinol is its weaker relative, it needs 2 conversions, easy to find in stores.

After retinol, we know Retinyl Esters - typical are Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Propionate – 3 conversions, very subtle and we also know Granactive retinoid. Esters, granactive retinoid are weaker, gentler and stable, but less powerful forms of retinoids.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (granactive... seriously, who makes these names, my brain hurts haha) is the newest member, retinoic acid ester. Supposedly more stable, with less irritation (yay), binding directly with retinoid receptors. HPR is being currently researched, fingers crossed.

The world of retinoids is constantly being researched, it´s a vast amount information - I put it here in a way I would explain my friend.

What kind of sorcery is this?!

We love retinoids for two important things – they increase collagen production (25 is the average age when it starts to decrease) and boost skin cell turnover.

Collagen production and skin cell turnover mean decrease of clogged pores, improved skin texture – hyperpigmentation is reduced. Your skin looks younger, more plumped up and more youthful, boosts collagen production and smoothes out fine lines. I can sing rhapsodies about retinol!

Okay, I got you interested – now what about usage?

It´s better to start with lower concentrations to let your skin get used to it – since it´s irritating at the beginning. Everything has its cons, of course these have them too – it´s all about the process you go through. It always depends on your skin, everybody´s is different.

Usual side effects are flaky skin, redness, itchiness, purging, increased sensitivity. It can take 3-4 weeks to adjust to a retinoid, you´re building tolerance. It usually takes 2-3 months to see first results, retinoids are for patient people.

In this case, you can try sandwich method – moisturizer, retinol, moisturizer.

How to choose the right one? THE one?

Don´t use it everyday, take your time, don´t hurry anything. Use it on dry skin when starting. Many people are afraid of retinol, in my opinion, because of the effects it has at the beginning. All this great skin bonuses I´ve just mentioned don´t happen overnight, it takes time, but worth it.

If you´re new kid on the block, take notes

Patch test.

The best possible way for storing retinol is dark bottle, away from sun – sun and oxygen exposure degrades its function and magical abilities.

Start at night, and after all, using retinoid is always better idea in night routine.

Sunscreen is a must at all times.

Look, the higher the concentration, the more beneficial it can be, but as well the more irritating.

It´s always better to start with lower percentage and level up.

Sunscreen, didn´t I say it enough? It´s especially important to remember you want to protect fresh skin from cell turnover, why destroy it.

You´re building tolerance, everything takes time.

Don´t use it every night if you´re starting – twice a week is enough, especially do not use with chemical exfoliants in one routine, limit other active ingredients due to sensitivity of skin. When you´ll build tolerance, you can use it in one routine, I do too.

Hydrate and moisturize your skin.

Don´t forget your neck and décolletage.

Use pea sized amount and avoid under the eye area when building tolerance.

Rosacea and eczema patients should be consulting this with doctor.

SPF ! ! !

This is my all time active ingredient, if somebody pointed at me to decided to choose the only active ingredient, I would choose my beloved vitamin A royals. Botox is forbidden for me, so I naturally put all my hopes and dreams into retinoids.

The last but not least – it is absolutely no-go zone for pregnant and nursing women. Retinoids are teratogens, they can harm developing embryo. Instead, use rosehip oil or bakuchiol.

Do retinoids work?

Absofuckinglutely.

ps: here are some brands - The Ordinary, Geek&Gorgeous, The Inkey List, La Roche Posay, Avene, Paula´s Choice, Medik 8, Kate Somerville, Alpha-H, Skinceuticals, Sunday Riley and many, many more.